Blackheads might just be the most frustrating of all skincare woes, with the pesky spots popping up out of nowhere – a real nuisance when it comes to achieving flawless skin. It might be tempting to resort to squeezing them or considering harsh treatments, but there’s a simple way to bid farewell to blackheads in the quest for clearer skin.
The solve? Adopt a gentle and consistent skincare routine.
By: Alexis Tshangana
What are blackheads?
Let’s start by understanding the science behind blackheads, and why they pop up unexpectedly. Blackheads are a form of acne, and the technical name is open comedone. There are two types of comedones – open and closed – and closed comedones are known as whiteheads. The dark appearance is due to oxidation when these substances come into contact with air.
Simply put, acne is a skin condition that occurs when hair follicles become plugged or blocked with oil and dead skin cells. It is most common among teenagers, with 70% to 87% being affected, and at least 25% of all adults being affected.
What causes blackheads?
Blackheads typically appear on the face, neck, chest, back and shoulders. These areas of skin have the most oil (sebaceous) glands. Pimples occur when hair follicles become plugged with oil and dead skin cells.
“Each hair follicle is connected to an oil gland, and these glands secrete oily sebum that lubricates hair and skin,” says Dr Alek Nikolic, a renowned medical doctor in aesthetic medicine and owner of the online skincare store, SkinMiles. “Sebum normally travels along the hair shaft and through the openings of the hair follicles, onto the surface of the skin”.
When the skin produces an excess amount of sebum and dead skin cells, the two can build up in the hair follicles, forming a soft plug that creates an environment for bacteria to thrive. If the clogged pore becomes infected with bacteria, inflammation results.
This issue can be worsened by hormones, certain medications, diet, and stress.
“Another surprising cause of blackheads is over-cleansing by stripping the skin of essential lipids. This disrupts the barrier function, and it is important to make sure to use a cleanser that doesn’t leave the skin feeling tight or dry,” adds Dr Nikolic.
To squeeze or not to squeeze?
There’s often nothing more satisfying than squeezing a blackhead, but this actually makes them much worse.
“Squeezing blackheads can push the blackhead deeper or even cause scarring which can lead to larger pores. There is also the possibility of infection by potentially exposing the area to bacteria with hands and dirt,” he adds.
Will they go away without intervention?
Typically, the larger the black dot is on the surface, the deeper it’s sitting in the skin and these deep blackheads often require professional extraction. Small, superficial blackheads may resolve on their own.
The best ways to treat blackheads
“I would recommend looking at incorporating chemical exfoliation like salicylic acid, or glycolic acid (if one is pregnant or breastfeeding), and retinol. These ingredients target and break down the clusters of skin cells responsible for blackheads cleaning deep within the pores and reducing the number of bacteria. Retinol will further help in reducing sebum or oil production, improving pore size, and minimising blackheads.
Another piece of advice I would give my patients is that every skin type needs water and not every type needs oil. Consider adding hyaluronic acid to your skincare regime,” says Dr Nikolic.